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RE: Clutch



I'm not familiar with the AP racing clutch, but if it's anything like the 
racing clutch that I bought from BSI for my race car, then the engagement & 
disengagement characteristics that you described should be considered normal.

The disk of my racing clutch is a 4 puck design with ceramic friction 
material.  This clutch disk has much less friction material than the stock 
clutch disk.  This is the reason that it disengages so quickly.  Also, in 
addition to having a very thin layer of friction material, this clutch disk 
has no springs in it like the stock disk does.  This is why engagement is so 
abrupt.

These are the inherent trade-offs of a racing clutch.  Those of us who use 
them in racing applications are willing to sacrifice smooth engagement for 
quick, slip-free engagement.  The whole point of a racing clutch is to not be 
able to slip it.

If you find the characteristics of this clutch to be unacceptable, I would 
suggest that you use a stock clutch disk or perhaps a disk that is of stock 
design with better quality friction material if such a disk exists.

In any case, this is assuming that the AP racing clutch is of the same design 
as my racing clutch.  If that is not the case, then my statements may not be 
applicable.

Michael Keith
Pasadena, TX
'98 Jetta GLX
'85 Golf SCCA ITB
>===== Original Message From Jeremy Selg  =====
>I installed an AP racing clutch about a month ago.  When I first put it
>in  it was really grabby, on or off, you couldn't slip it if you tried.
>Now after only a month the friction point is really high on my pedel, I
>press it in about 1" and the clutch disengages.  This is reminisent of
>when my stock clutch went out.  I know there is no way to adjust the
>point of friction (where the clutch engages,in relation to pedel
>depress).  My question is has any one had experience with a performance
>clutch that didn't "act" right? What was wrong? What did you do?
>
>          JR
>
>
>
>
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