Re: New (used) Jetta, and some repair questions

["Nathan" <etherwolf@sopris.net>]

Depends on how far you've lowered your car... I dropped mine ~1.5" with H&R Sports. They said that's
as low as I could go before they just couldn't get the alignment machine in there :-)

Thanks for posting this, Chuck! Much useful info!!

# Nathan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Simpson, Chuck" <chuck.simpson@zeltech.com>
To: <jettaglx@igtc.com>
Cc: "Simpson, Chuck" <chuck.simpson@zeltech.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 2:56 PM
Subject: RE: New (used) Jetta, and some repair questions


1 - This is common and can be remedied by a good alignment.  I just aligned
my car myself last night using a few crescent wrenches, straight-edge (I use
a long level), laser pointer, magnetic protractor ($10 from sears),
measuring tape, and metric sockets.

If you don't need to adjust your camber, then you don't need the magnetic
protractor.  On a flat level surface, you can adjust your toe pretty easily
using the items above.  Since the rears are non-adjustable, you can use
those wheels as a reference.  I placed the straight-edge across the rear
tire, placed the laser pointer against the straight-edge and point the laser
ahead at some object.  Verify your steering wheel is straight, then do the
same for the front wheel on the same side.  If they don't point near the
same object, note the distance between the two points on a horizontal axis.
You now need adjust the tie-rod so the wheel points at the same original
object when the car is not jacked up.  Jack the front up, place the
straight-edge and laser against the wheel and point at a some object, loosen
the nut that holds the tie-rod end in its' place, then rotate the tie-rod.
Keep rotating until your wheel moves the same distance compared to your
rear/front wheel measurement difference.  You may need to twist the boot the
opposite direction so it doesn't get messed up.  Tighten the tie-rod end nut
and lower the car.  Repeat the steps for the other side of the car.

When you are all done, check to see how much toe-in or toe-out you have.
With your car on the ground, measure the distance between the center tread
of the front side of your front tires (A).  Then measure the distance
between the center tread of the rear side of your front tires (B).  The
difference between those two numbers is your toe setting.  If it is 0, then
you have zero toe.  If (A<B), then you have toe-in.  If (A>B), then you have
toe-out.  You can fine tune this by carefully adjusting your tie-rods again.
I recommend 1/16" toe-in for added stability, or 1/16" toe-out for better
turn-in response (common for auto-x'ers).

  |-------A--------|
 ---              ---
|   |            |   |
|   |            |   |
|   |            |   | Front wheels
|   |            |   |
|   |            |   |
 ---              ---
  |-------B--------|


Does that make any sense?  Of course you can avoid this by taking it to a
shop, but most shops in my area will not align a lowered car.  If they do
align it, then they charge extra.  :(
The magnetic protractor is awesome when adjusting camber.  I used it to set
my camber to -1.5 degrees.

-Chuck Simpson
'97 GTI VR6