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Re: More Q's on clutch



Must be something else.  Glxs do not have cables for the clutch - it is
hydraulic.

Stanton '95glx

-----Original Message-----
From: John Hopkins <vergeo@email.msn.com>
To: jettaglx@igtc.com <jettaglx@igtc.com>
Date: Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: More Q's on clutch


>I have a quick question for all my fellow vwers.  I have had my 98 glx for
a
>little more than a year and the other day I notice that my clutch cable is
>starting to get tangled.  Has this happened to anyone and if so how much
did
>it cost to have the cable replaced??
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeremy Selg <jisu09@hotmail.com>
>To: jettaglx@igtc.com <jettaglx@igtc.com>
>Date: Thursday, February 11, 1999 6:24 PM
>Subject: RE: More Q's on clutch
>
>
>>>From: "Jeremy Selg" <jisu09@hotmail.com>
>>>To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>>Subject: RE: Clutch
>>>Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:26:52 PST
>>>Reply-To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>>
>>>>Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 15:26:38 -0600
>>>>From: mikeandcarmen <mikeandcarmen@pdq.net>
>>>>To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>>>Subject: RE: Clutch
>>>>Reply-To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>>>
>>>
>>>I understand that the engagement is abrupt and the other
>>>"sacrifices"related to a racing clutch, I'm definitly willing to make
>>>the "sacrifices", but what my real question is.... It seems that with
>>>a self adjusting hydralic clutch, with wear & tear it will adjust
>>>itself. Therefor the point of friction or engagement when depressing
>>>the clutch pedel will move increasingly toward the top of the pedel.
>>>If the point of friction is ALREADY very near the top of my pedel,
>>>when my clutch self adjusts it will have no room to "go up"  This may
>>>not be an actual clutch disk problem, as much as a pressure plate
>>>problem. My main concern is clutch life.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>        JR
>>>
>>>>I'm not familiar with the AP racing clutch, but if it's anything
>>like
>>>the
>>>>racing clutch that I bought from BSI for my race car, then the
>>>engagement &
>>>>disengagement characteristics that you described should be
>>considered
>>>normal.
>>>>
>>>>The disk of my racing clutch is a 4 puck design with ceramic
>>friction
>>>>material.  This clutch disk has much less friction material than the
>>>stock
>>>>clutch disk.  This is the reason that it disengages so quickly.
>>>Also, in
>>>>addition to having a very thin layer of friction material, this
>>>clutch disk
>>>>has no springs in it like the stock disk does.  This is why
>>>engagement is so
>>>>abrupt.
>>>>
>>>>These are the inherent trade-offs of a racing clutch.  Those of us
>>>who use
>>>>them in racing applications are willing to sacrifice smooth
>>>engagement for
>>>>quick, slip-free engagement.  The whole point of a racing clutch is
>>>to not be
>>>>able to slip it.
>>>>
>>>>If you find the characteristics of this clutch to be unacceptable, I
>>>would
>>>>suggest that you use a stock clutch disk or perhaps a disk that is
>>of
>>>stock
>>>>design with better quality friction material if such a disk exists.
>>>>
>>>>In any case, this is assuming that the AP racing clutch is of the
>>>same design
>>>>as my racing clutch.  If that is not the case, then my statements
>>may
>>>not be
>>>>applicable.
>>>>
>>>>Michael Keith
>>>>Pasadena, TX
>>>>'98 Jetta GLX
>>>>'85 Golf SCCA ITB
>>>>>===== Original Message From Jeremy Selg  =====
>>>>>I installed an AP racing clutch about a month ago.  When I first
>>put
>>>it
>>>>>in  it was really grabby, on or off, you couldn't slip it if you
>>>tried.
>>>>>Now after only a month the friction point is really high on my
>>>pedel, I
>>>>>press it in about 1" and the clutch disengages.  This is reminisent
>>>of
>>>>>when my stock clutch went out.  I know there is no way to adjust
>>the
>>>>>point of friction (where the clutch engages,in relation to pedel
>>>>>depress).  My question is has any one had experience with a
>>>performance
>>>>>clutch that didn't "act" right? What was wrong? What did you do?
>>>>>
>>>>>          JR
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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>
>
>