This pulley thing...

Lifting the engine a foot sounds like it needs more than just removing the engine mounts...what about the crank shaft? As far as I know it's pretty rigid and while an inch or two of lifting seems possible, a foot seems like a little too much play in the system...maybe this is something that is easily done...I really have no idea. Okay, on to something I know more about...the alternator situation...While it is true that a small stereo system of a couple hundred watts MAY be fine, there are other things to consider. I have no idea what the loss of amperage would be due to the underdriving of the alternator, but it could be easily calculated by knowing the reduction of drive speed and the specs on our alts. However, if you have some other things along with that modest audio system, such as high wattage fogs & headlamps and whatever else may be drawing extra current there could be problems. The idea that a capacitor will solve this problem is a misconception. Caps don't produce electricity, they simply store and release current very quickly. They serve car audio applications well because they supply extra current during music transients-instances of high current demand-large bass drops and things like that. The bottom line is that if your alternator is not producing enough current to run all the accessories you want on, you'll end up drawing that extra current from the battery until it is drained...then you have more trouble. And an extra battery won't help either...this just extends engine-off current supply...batteries are actually a load on the electrical system once the engine is started...

The majority of us may have no problems using one of these underdrive pulleys...The power gain sounds sweet. Our cars have 120amp alternators which is fairly healthy...but if you kick up the heated seats, heater, headlights & fogs, wipers and stereo all together (which is very possible)...you're using most of that 120amps...All I'm saying is that you need to do some research ahead of time.