Re: brake job diy or shop?

["Nathan" <etherwolf@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Just a note on the rears, it's not the bearings that are pressing into the
rotors, it's the races, and definitely have the supplier do it. It's cheap
and headache-free. You can get nice rotors (I bought their slotted ones,
turns out they are Brembos) and pads from parts4vws.com and I know they
pre-press races; I just did my rears a month or two ago. The price for the
rears was like right at $200 for pre-pressed slotted rotors and Red Box
pads, along with all the bearings, grease seals, and cotter pins needed to
do the rears. Not too bad.

Also, as mentioned in another post, don't forget the ABS speed sensor on the
rears! I did, and my brake job took a LOT longer than it needed to. The
speed sensor is not really easy to discern from the Bentley pics, so what
you're looking for is a squirrel-cage-style wheel/basket thingy that fits
around the inside of the rotor, running around the outside of the inner
bearing seal. It comes off pretty easy with a flat-blade screwdriver but
will be coated with crap and you may not be able to see it right away.

The only other thing I can say is you may need to get a little unfriendly
with your front rotors to get them off... you will probably want to look up
techniques for getting the damned things off without damaging anything
before you start on them, 'cause if they've been there a few years, most do
NOT want to let go. :-)  I've heard of using anti-rust compounds, using
large sledges, torches... they're stubborn little bastards.

Good luck, Marc!
# Nathan
1996 GLX


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Nash" <steve@nashfloors.com>
To: <jettaglx@igtc.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 6:04 AM
Subject: Re: brake job diy or shop?


Marc,

I just did this on my 97 GLX.  It is not to bad of a job if you are
prepared.  First, get the Bentley manual.

The front is very easy.  Just a few things come to mind.  After you remove
the caliper you need to remove the mounting bracket.  It is held on by 2 17
or 19 mm bolts.  The manual calls them a one time use bolt.  BS.  I went to
the dealer to by 4 new bolts and they only had one in stock.  Turns out it
is just a new bolt with a coating of loctite on it.  I just cleaned the old
bolts with a solvent and used fresh loctite.  The only other potential
problem could be the rotor set screw.  Do yourself a favor, buy an impact
screwdriver.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37530
This will remove the set screw with very little drama.  After that just
reinstall everything.  Torque everything to spec and you are good to go.

Now on to the rear.  Big tip # 2, get the rotors with the new bearing
pressed in by the supplier.  That will save you a ton of time and heartache.
I never had a car with this setup before and I had to run out and get new
bearings as I was doing the job.  It was a major PITA that I wish I new
before I started the job.   The other problem can be the rear piston.  To
push it in you need a tool that turns it at the same time it pushes.  I
always bleed the system when I am done so I crack open the bleeder screw to
push the piston back in.  It just lets the old fluid out and removes the
pressure and makes the job easier.  Put everything back together, torque,
bleed, and enjoy the new brakes.

If you have any other questions let me know.

-Steve
1997 GLX - FOR SALE -  make me an offer, it NEEDS to go ASAP.  Please.