Re: More Q's on clutch

["John Hopkins" <vergeo@email.msn.com>]

I have a quick question for all my fellow vwers.  I have had my 98 glx for a
little more than a year and the other day I notice that my clutch cable is
starting to get tangled.  Has this happened to anyone and if so how much did
it cost to have the cable replaced??
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Selg <jisu09@hotmail.com>
To: jettaglx@igtc.com <jettaglx@igtc.com>
Date: Thursday, February 11, 1999 6:24 PM
Subject: RE: More Q's on clutch


>>From: "Jeremy Selg" <jisu09@hotmail.com>
>>To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>Subject: RE: Clutch
>>Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:26:52 PST
>>Reply-To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>
>>>Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 15:26:38 -0600
>>>From: mikeandcarmen <mikeandcarmen@pdq.net>
>>>To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>>Subject: RE: Clutch
>>>Reply-To: jettaglx@igtc.com
>>>
>>
>>I understand that the engagement is abrupt and the other
>>"sacrifices"related to a racing clutch, I'm definitly willing to make
>>the "sacrifices", but what my real question is.... It seems that with
>>a self adjusting hydralic clutch, with wear & tear it will adjust
>>itself. Therefor the point of friction or engagement when depressing
>>the clutch pedel will move increasingly toward the top of the pedel.
>>If the point of friction is ALREADY very near the top of my pedel,
>>when my clutch self adjusts it will have no room to "go up"  This may
>>not be an actual clutch disk problem, as much as a pressure plate
>>problem. My main concern is clutch life.
>>
>>
>>
>>        JR
>>
>>>I'm not familiar with the AP racing clutch, but if it's anything
>like
>>the
>>>racing clutch that I bought from BSI for my race car, then the
>>engagement &
>>>disengagement characteristics that you described should be
>considered
>>normal.
>>>
>>>The disk of my racing clutch is a 4 puck design with ceramic
>friction
>>>material.  This clutch disk has much less friction material than the
>>stock
>>>clutch disk.  This is the reason that it disengages so quickly.
>>Also, in
>>>addition to having a very thin layer of friction material, this
>>clutch disk
>>>has no springs in it like the stock disk does.  This is why
>>engagement is so
>>>abrupt.
>>>
>>>These are the inherent trade-offs of a racing clutch.  Those of us
>>who use
>>>them in racing applications are willing to sacrifice smooth
>>engagement for
>>>quick, slip-free engagement.  The whole point of a racing clutch is
>>to not be
>>>able to slip it.
>>>
>>>If you find the characteristics of this clutch to be unacceptable, I
>>would
>>>suggest that you use a stock clutch disk or perhaps a disk that is
>of
>>stock
>>>design with better quality friction material if such a disk exists.
>>>
>>>In any case, this is assuming that the AP racing clutch is of the
>>same design
>>>as my racing clutch.  If that is not the case, then my statements
>may
>>not be
>>>applicable.
>>>
>>>Michael Keith
>>>Pasadena, TX
>>>'98 Jetta GLX
>>>'85 Golf SCCA ITB
>>>>===== Original Message From Jeremy Selg  =====
>>>>I installed an AP racing clutch about a month ago.  When I first
>put
>>it
>>>>in  it was really grabby, on or off, you couldn't slip it if you
>>tried.
>>>>Now after only a month the friction point is really high on my
>>pedel, I
>>>>press it in about 1" and the clutch disengages.  This is reminisent
>>of
>>>>when my stock clutch went out.  I know there is no way to adjust
>the
>>>>point of friction (where the clutch engages,in relation to pedel
>>>>depress).  My question is has any one had experience with a
>>performance
>>>>clutch that didn't "act" right? What was wrong? What did you do?
>>>>
>>>>          JR
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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